Monday, August 9, 2010
9th August, Ondangwa, Northern Namibia
Hi,
three posts just added. Been very hard to upload them the last few days as speeds are very slow at times with the dongle. Still working on the photos.
All well, warming up all the time.
Regards
Gary
three posts just added. Been very hard to upload them the last few days as speeds are very slow at times with the dongle. Still working on the photos.
All well, warming up all the time.
Regards
Gary
6th August 2
6th August. Namutoni Camp, Etosha NP.
It was a favourite for us last time and didn’t let us down in the first couple of hours here this time. Etosha is a vast national park. The farthest 2 camps are well over 140 kms apart. We arrived after lunch, had a doze, then took off to the Kalkheuwel water hole, some 18 kms from the camp. A few cars were there but in the hour before we had to head back to the camp, they close the gates at sundown, we saw elephant, giraffe, warthog, 4 lions, jackal, impala as well as many birds. It was easy to see the pecking order with the animals: before the elephants arrived the other animals were very nervous with the lions so close. They became more confident with the arrival of the pachyderms especially when one of them, after having a mud bath less than 40 metres from us, headed towards where the lions were resting sending them flying. He was very impressive.
It was a favourite for us last time and didn’t let us down in the first couple of hours here this time. Etosha is a vast national park. The farthest 2 camps are well over 140 kms apart. We arrived after lunch, had a doze, then took off to the Kalkheuwel water hole, some 18 kms from the camp. A few cars were there but in the hour before we had to head back to the camp, they close the gates at sundown, we saw elephant, giraffe, warthog, 4 lions, jackal, impala as well as many birds. It was easy to see the pecking order with the animals: before the elephants arrived the other animals were very nervous with the lions so close. They became more confident with the arrival of the pachyderms especially when one of them, after having a mud bath less than 40 metres from us, headed towards where the lions were resting sending them flying. He was very impressive.
6th Aug. Roy's Camp
6th August. Roy’s Camp. On way to Rundu
’You vill need vour veel drrive vor the last 6 kelometres’ Karla, the owner of Ohange Lodge said in her strong Afrikaans English. Getting quite used to it by now. Karla was recommending a 200km each way side trip to visit a local tribe of bushmen who had started a low key tourist operation 6 years ago to show visitors how they used to live as hunter/gatherers. Twenty years ago they were forbidden to hunt as the number of wildlife had dropped dramatically. They have given up the nomadic life; the village we visited had about 50 inhabitants.
Erastus met us and told us to make our way to the camp site 500 metres away. He followed after changing into his native garb of a very small loin cloth. They are a small race, making Joan look quite tall. The women soon appeared and proceeded to make jewellery from ostrich shell and seeds. Erastus’es offsider showed us how to make fire from 2 sticks, I refused an offer to try myself, then he proceeded to make a bow from a nearby branch and the string he wove together from a green plant, perhaps a type of succulent. Thirty minutes later we were trying the bow out on a straw antelope. I missed, not by much, but the local hit true. Joan had great difficulty firing, we felt a little unsafe standing too close.
One of the women had a 1 month old baby with her, a lovely little thing already with the tight knit hair of their race.
Many scientists think the San Bushmen is mankind earliest ancestors. A sobering thought but they do have the Asian appearance in their faces.
Roy’s Camp is well known as a stopping off point It has an eccentric atmosphere with bits dangling everywhere. It is the busiest place we have stayed so far.
’You vill need vour veel drrive vor the last 6 kelometres’ Karla, the owner of Ohange Lodge said in her strong Afrikaans English. Getting quite used to it by now. Karla was recommending a 200km each way side trip to visit a local tribe of bushmen who had started a low key tourist operation 6 years ago to show visitors how they used to live as hunter/gatherers. Twenty years ago they were forbidden to hunt as the number of wildlife had dropped dramatically. They have given up the nomadic life; the village we visited had about 50 inhabitants.
Erastus met us and told us to make our way to the camp site 500 metres away. He followed after changing into his native garb of a very small loin cloth. They are a small race, making Joan look quite tall. The women soon appeared and proceeded to make jewellery from ostrich shell and seeds. Erastus’es offsider showed us how to make fire from 2 sticks, I refused an offer to try myself, then he proceeded to make a bow from a nearby branch and the string he wove together from a green plant, perhaps a type of succulent. Thirty minutes later we were trying the bow out on a straw antelope. I missed, not by much, but the local hit true. Joan had great difficulty firing, we felt a little unsafe standing too close.
One of the women had a 1 month old baby with her, a lovely little thing already with the tight knit hair of their race.
Many scientists think the San Bushmen is mankind earliest ancestors. A sobering thought but they do have the Asian appearance in their faces.
Roy’s Camp is well known as a stopping off point It has an eccentric atmosphere with bits dangling everywhere. It is the busiest place we have stayed so far.
5th August Ohange Lodge
5th August. Ohange Lodge, near Tsumeb
It was a frustrating day yesterday. We drove north to Otjiwharingo and hoped to visit the REST crowd that we will be doing some volunteering work with later. However due to a thrown away phone number, bad directions and a closed information centre we ended up 40kms out of town at the Cheetah Conservation Fund complex. The REST crowd were further up the main road and about the same distance on dirt road. Well, seeing we were there we took in the tour. It was feeding time, they are beautiful animals, the ones at the complex were orphans and some weren’t able to be released back into the while lacking hunting skills to survive. The genetic bank of the cheetah is very small in fact they may be traced back to a handful of females. Deformities are common, the male’s sperm is often infertile and inbreeding is a major problem. CCF are doing an important job of trying to increase the gene diversity by sending semen worldwide to other groups.
We also learnt that 90% of cheetahs are not in reserves and game parks. In the past they have been shot by farmers when they attack their live stock. CCF are working with the farmers to turn a bad situation into a win/win one. They are breeding Turkish Anatolian shepherd dogs to sell at a cheap price to farmers who have had stock killed. The Anatolian dogs of course bond with the stock and protect them with their lives. It is an ingenious arrangement we thought. The farmer spends a few days at CCF to learn how to look after them and follow up visits occur to make sure all is well. The cheetahs have to revert back to the plentiful wildlife on the farms.
I am writing this a few metres from the van, the sun is rising, behind me an ostrich (partly tame) had just wandered by and in the distance a group of springbok leap away. I was going for an early morning walk but thought better of it. I’m not sure of predators in this area.
It was a frustrating day yesterday. We drove north to Otjiwharingo and hoped to visit the REST crowd that we will be doing some volunteering work with later. However due to a thrown away phone number, bad directions and a closed information centre we ended up 40kms out of town at the Cheetah Conservation Fund complex. The REST crowd were further up the main road and about the same distance on dirt road. Well, seeing we were there we took in the tour. It was feeding time, they are beautiful animals, the ones at the complex were orphans and some weren’t able to be released back into the while lacking hunting skills to survive. The genetic bank of the cheetah is very small in fact they may be traced back to a handful of females. Deformities are common, the male’s sperm is often infertile and inbreeding is a major problem. CCF are doing an important job of trying to increase the gene diversity by sending semen worldwide to other groups.
We also learnt that 90% of cheetahs are not in reserves and game parks. In the past they have been shot by farmers when they attack their live stock. CCF are working with the farmers to turn a bad situation into a win/win one. They are breeding Turkish Anatolian shepherd dogs to sell at a cheap price to farmers who have had stock killed. The Anatolian dogs of course bond with the stock and protect them with their lives. It is an ingenious arrangement we thought. The farmer spends a few days at CCF to learn how to look after them and follow up visits occur to make sure all is well. The cheetahs have to revert back to the plentiful wildlife on the farms.
I am writing this a few metres from the van, the sun is rising, behind me an ostrich (partly tame) had just wandered by and in the distance a group of springbok leap away. I was going for an early morning walk but thought better of it. I’m not sure of predators in this area.
Tuesday, August 3, 2010
3rd August Okahandja
3rd August. Okahandja Lodge. 70kms Nth Windhoek
Finally bought everything we thought we needed and on the road. It’s a wonderful sensation. The first night we stopped on the edge of Windhoek to try it all out so we could duck back to town to get anything we missed. It was near the main road and noisy but that didn’t seem to worry our neighbours, a family of African ground squirrels. There was about 15 plastic bags of goods lined up behind the Nissan which Joan studiously found room for inside. Today we are having a break to recuperate from it all.
The Okahandja Lodge is similar to many of the lodges and retreats over here: the main lodge with its up market accommodation and price to match, then tucked away in some times idyllic spots is their campsite. This one could take about 15 units, shaded and grassy, water and power on hand, hot water from the donkey, spotless and a night guard to keep an eye on things. And we can use the facilities of the lodge. All for $22 a night. Birdlife is profuse. It was too hard to refuse the 2nd night.
I spoke about the bakkie before but now we are in it there is little we can complain about. We had to take it back to the hire crowd we bought it off as the water pump wouldn’t work and a few other niggles but that was all sorted out without difficulty. It’s a little different than our VW but just as much room. We had to forgo the porta potti for lack of space but these stools with a hole in the top and a bucket underneath seem to work ok for Joan. Just as long as she remembers to put the lid on after to save my Bellingen Jazz cap falling in for a 2nd time. The vehicle as I said before, is very basic. They call them the Bushmaster model over here. It’s really like the Patrols and Landcruisers of 20 years ago. No turbo, automatic choke, ABS brakes, electric windows, nothing that can go wrong in some awkward place. It’s very basic but I have been told many times that that is the perfect vehicle for what we have done and are doing.
Enough raving. Will sort out some photos and get them on the blog.
Gary
Finally bought everything we thought we needed and on the road. It’s a wonderful sensation. The first night we stopped on the edge of Windhoek to try it all out so we could duck back to town to get anything we missed. It was near the main road and noisy but that didn’t seem to worry our neighbours, a family of African ground squirrels. There was about 15 plastic bags of goods lined up behind the Nissan which Joan studiously found room for inside. Today we are having a break to recuperate from it all.
The Okahandja Lodge is similar to many of the lodges and retreats over here: the main lodge with its up market accommodation and price to match, then tucked away in some times idyllic spots is their campsite. This one could take about 15 units, shaded and grassy, water and power on hand, hot water from the donkey, spotless and a night guard to keep an eye on things. And we can use the facilities of the lodge. All for $22 a night. Birdlife is profuse. It was too hard to refuse the 2nd night.
I spoke about the bakkie before but now we are in it there is little we can complain about. We had to take it back to the hire crowd we bought it off as the water pump wouldn’t work and a few other niggles but that was all sorted out without difficulty. It’s a little different than our VW but just as much room. We had to forgo the porta potti for lack of space but these stools with a hole in the top and a bucket underneath seem to work ok for Joan. Just as long as she remembers to put the lid on after to save my Bellingen Jazz cap falling in for a 2nd time. The vehicle as I said before, is very basic. They call them the Bushmaster model over here. It’s really like the Patrols and Landcruisers of 20 years ago. No turbo, automatic choke, ABS brakes, electric windows, nothing that can go wrong in some awkward place. It’s very basic but I have been told many times that that is the perfect vehicle for what we have done and are doing.
Enough raving. Will sort out some photos and get them on the blog.
Gary
Friday, July 30, 2010
31st July. Windhoek, Namibia
31st July. Windhoek
Joan is in her element. Shopping to stock the bakkie. Bedding, kitchen things, food, table and chairs. Then there are the essentials we need to go into the isolated north like sand shovels, compressor, tow rope, puncture repair kits, the list seems endless. But we are getting through it slowly. I think scouting the town trying to find the best shops to buy all this was the most tiring. Most of what we need is cheaper to buy then back home.
Yesterday I completed the paperwork for the bakkie which was pretty straight forward with the assistance of Martin from Asco car hire. I now have a grandiose document full of whirls and stamps with my mug shot emblazoned on one corner to say I am now the proud owner of one Nissan bakkie. All for AU$90. Registration is cheap here though 3rd party ins is getting up to what we pay at home.
I will add a bit of a ramble I wrote on the earlier days after we arrived. Please excuse my indulgence.
29th July.
Picked up the van today, after all that time of uncertainty it was good to see it in the flesh. A few signs of wear and we would like to spruce up the inside here and there but overall, very happy. I spent the afternoon at the registry office getting the first part of paperwork completed for the change of ownership and will complete it tomorrow morning. The staff at Asco car rental have been very helpful making the venture quite easy so far. The one hiccup was us having to have an address here in Windhoek for the renewal papers to be sent but the lady here at the pension said to use their address.
28th July.Chamonix Guest House,Jo’burg.
It was a good flight from Melbourne. A long 15 hours, but a new plane with all the bells and whistles made it enjoyable. Plenty of spare seats meaning stretching out to sleep. Food excellent with three choices of main course. Crew attentive without being overly pally, the case with Virgin Blue. Joan had been a bit apprehensive of flying Virgin Australia but was pleasantly surprised.
29th July
Before going back to the airport for the flight to Windhoek we caught up with Len, his wife Ria having to work. They are a great couple; we met first at a lodge outside the Etosha NP in Namibia in 2008. They had been through the area on northern Namibia where we were heading and wanted to go over the route with us. We will see them again before we fly back to Australia and look forward to their visit next March.
Joan is in her element. Shopping to stock the bakkie. Bedding, kitchen things, food, table and chairs. Then there are the essentials we need to go into the isolated north like sand shovels, compressor, tow rope, puncture repair kits, the list seems endless. But we are getting through it slowly. I think scouting the town trying to find the best shops to buy all this was the most tiring. Most of what we need is cheaper to buy then back home.
Yesterday I completed the paperwork for the bakkie which was pretty straight forward with the assistance of Martin from Asco car hire. I now have a grandiose document full of whirls and stamps with my mug shot emblazoned on one corner to say I am now the proud owner of one Nissan bakkie. All for AU$90. Registration is cheap here though 3rd party ins is getting up to what we pay at home.
I will add a bit of a ramble I wrote on the earlier days after we arrived. Please excuse my indulgence.
29th July.
Picked up the van today, after all that time of uncertainty it was good to see it in the flesh. A few signs of wear and we would like to spruce up the inside here and there but overall, very happy. I spent the afternoon at the registry office getting the first part of paperwork completed for the change of ownership and will complete it tomorrow morning. The staff at Asco car rental have been very helpful making the venture quite easy so far. The one hiccup was us having to have an address here in Windhoek for the renewal papers to be sent but the lady here at the pension said to use their address.
28th July.Chamonix Guest House,Jo’burg.
It was a good flight from Melbourne. A long 15 hours, but a new plane with all the bells and whistles made it enjoyable. Plenty of spare seats meaning stretching out to sleep. Food excellent with three choices of main course. Crew attentive without being overly pally, the case with Virgin Blue. Joan had been a bit apprehensive of flying Virgin Australia but was pleasantly surprised.
29th July
Before going back to the airport for the flight to Windhoek we caught up with Len, his wife Ria having to work. They are a great couple; we met first at a lodge outside the Etosha NP in Namibia in 2008. They had been through the area on northern Namibia where we were heading and wanted to go over the route with us. We will see them again before we fly back to Australia and look forward to their visit next March.
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