24th Aug. Swakopmund.
Laundry day today, both for our clothes as well as ourselves, a hot shower after 4 days without a wash is most enjoyable. Still, the park was something exceptional; short distances to travel, roads pretty good and the unexpected wild life we came upon something hard to beat. This morning was a typical example. After the night at the most isolated place we have stayed at, I stepped outside to see half a dozen springbok warily eyeing me as they fed a short distance away. I walked down to the sandy stretch on the track in and noticed the spore of the jackals that were howling at the full moon as we went to bed. I could see their eyes in the spotlight the night before. It was 20kms to the main road over rough granite, not long after leaving we came upon a solitary warthog nonchalantly feeding near the road, the road then became sandy as it wound its way along a dry riverbed, raptors circled above, there was good vegetation in the river bed, driving out of it we surprised three giraffes feeding, they galloped off a few metres then turned to stare. A herd of gemsbok picked up our movement and galloped off. We noticed movement on the ground to our left that I thought were meercats but their bushy tails showed them up as ground squirrels, we passed a closer group not long after perched up on their hind legs just like meercats. Then there was a herd of zebras to our right, the stallion making his donkey like neighing as he turned around to confront us. Soon there was a warthog family to our left a few metres from the road and as we pulled out onto the main road ostriches ran across the road. And that was all within 20kms and one hour.
The Lonely Planet says of this park ‘ truly this is one place where the journey itself is worth much more than the destination'.
Wednesday, August 25, 2010
Tuesday, August 24, 2010
24th Aug. Swakopmund
21st Aug. Walvis Bay
Swakopmund and Walvis Bay are as different as chalk and cheese. Separated by only 30kms, the former is suave, modern, and chic with its coffee houses and boutiques. Walvis Bay is the working town with its large port, betting houses and tired centre. Yet it is the latter with its friendly people, and air of industry. And then there are the wetlands south of the city that make it unique. An estuary of some 45,000 hectares that is home to hundreds of different types of birds. The area is a world RAMSAR declared place of significance for migrating birds the main inhabitant being tens of thousands greater flamingoes. All along the shore at low tide they are seen doing the circular dance of death for the crustaceans they are trying to scare out of the mud. They put their beaks in the mud where they think one is then stomp the feet going around in a circle at the same time. It is quite amusing. That is an advantage of having a bit of time up your sleeve; to take in things like that that the usual tourist wouldn’t have time to do.
22nd Aug Namib/Naukluft NP Mirabib Kopje
That applies to these next three days as well. This park is the biggest in the country but is mainly semi desert and sand dunes. We spent last night camped at the Kuseib Canyon where the dry river forces its way through this rocky range. On the other side of the river is the beginning of the massive sand dunes that carry on for over 100kms. I climbed one that would easily be 150 metres high and this morning we trekked through the canyon proper. So quiet with a little breeze and the odd swallow to break the silence.
We left there this morning heading to this kopje a short distance away. The road was good and interesting passing by a couple of deserted mining sites, wildlife was scant apart from a couple of bat eared foxes and the ubiquitous springbok. We then turned a corner, there was a windmill ahead of us and in the surrounding area were 40-50 ostriches, at least 15 gemsbok, jackals, mountain zebra, a family of warthogs and nearby a colony of meercats. It was amazing. The windmill wasn’t pumping any water but there must have been water nearby as some of those would be water dependent.
23rd. Namib/Naukluft NP. Groot Tinkas Camp
I don’t think we have been as isolated as this evening. Camped besides a small kopje after traveling along this 4wd track for 15kms or so. A couple of wart hogs greeted us but made off fairly quickly. We passed the usual plains animals on our way here and there are signs of them grazing in the area but none here at present. These kopjes have their own animals, smaller but still interesting. As I write this a couple of dassie rats come out and forage then fly back into their shelter if we disturb them. Actually they have been misnamed as they aren’t dassies (hyraxes) or rats but a genus of their own. We had a couple of native rabbits in our area last night and some rock hyraxes on the rocks this morning
There are a couple of graves nearby, the writing is in German but sounds like they were in the army and the two blokes died within a day of each other. Will find out more when I find a German speaker.
We will be leaving the park tomorrow and will either head back to Swakopmund where there is a day trip we would like to do, or head on to Windhoek.
Swakopmund and Walvis Bay are as different as chalk and cheese. Separated by only 30kms, the former is suave, modern, and chic with its coffee houses and boutiques. Walvis Bay is the working town with its large port, betting houses and tired centre. Yet it is the latter with its friendly people, and air of industry. And then there are the wetlands south of the city that make it unique. An estuary of some 45,000 hectares that is home to hundreds of different types of birds. The area is a world RAMSAR declared place of significance for migrating birds the main inhabitant being tens of thousands greater flamingoes. All along the shore at low tide they are seen doing the circular dance of death for the crustaceans they are trying to scare out of the mud. They put their beaks in the mud where they think one is then stomp the feet going around in a circle at the same time. It is quite amusing. That is an advantage of having a bit of time up your sleeve; to take in things like that that the usual tourist wouldn’t have time to do.
22nd Aug Namib/Naukluft NP Mirabib Kopje
That applies to these next three days as well. This park is the biggest in the country but is mainly semi desert and sand dunes. We spent last night camped at the Kuseib Canyon where the dry river forces its way through this rocky range. On the other side of the river is the beginning of the massive sand dunes that carry on for over 100kms. I climbed one that would easily be 150 metres high and this morning we trekked through the canyon proper. So quiet with a little breeze and the odd swallow to break the silence.
We left there this morning heading to this kopje a short distance away. The road was good and interesting passing by a couple of deserted mining sites, wildlife was scant apart from a couple of bat eared foxes and the ubiquitous springbok. We then turned a corner, there was a windmill ahead of us and in the surrounding area were 40-50 ostriches, at least 15 gemsbok, jackals, mountain zebra, a family of warthogs and nearby a colony of meercats. It was amazing. The windmill wasn’t pumping any water but there must have been water nearby as some of those would be water dependent.
23rd. Namib/Naukluft NP. Groot Tinkas Camp
I don’t think we have been as isolated as this evening. Camped besides a small kopje after traveling along this 4wd track for 15kms or so. A couple of wart hogs greeted us but made off fairly quickly. We passed the usual plains animals on our way here and there are signs of them grazing in the area but none here at present. These kopjes have their own animals, smaller but still interesting. As I write this a couple of dassie rats come out and forage then fly back into their shelter if we disturb them. Actually they have been misnamed as they aren’t dassies (hyraxes) or rats but a genus of their own. We had a couple of native rabbits in our area last night and some rock hyraxes on the rocks this morning
There are a couple of graves nearby, the writing is in German but sounds like they were in the army and the two blokes died within a day of each other. Will find out more when I find a German speaker.
We will be leaving the park tomorrow and will either head back to Swakopmund where there is a day trip we would like to do, or head on to Windhoek.
Thursday, August 19, 2010
19th Aug. Sth of Swakopmund
19th Aug. South of Swakopmund.
Finally caught up with the blog.
We left Palmwag fairly early as we wanted to get to Henties Bay, the first place to get provisions. It’s on the coast and meant we were to pass through the Skeleton Coast NP on a one day transit pass. This whole coast is so fascinating, so dry and lacking in vegetation. In the past it was a graveyard for any shipwrecked survivors as there is no water no matter what Bear Grylles says. The ship wrecks didn’t end with the beginning of steam, we visited a large Chinese trawler, the Zeila of Hangana that came ashore on the 25 Aug. 2008. It is still there looking like the day it landed. Incidentally we were in Sth Africa at the time suffering some of the severest gales they had had for years.
On the way out to the coast we had or first blowout after hitting a rough river crossing too fast. We have 2 spares so no problems but we only had three cars pass us while working on it. They first 2 stopped to see if we need help but the third car was Max & Moira. It’s funny, I had a feeling they would come along.
The camp site at Henties Bay is one you wouldn’t recommend. Almost new it is strewn with signs saying what and what not to do, the vibes were not good as soon as the white woman came out of her fortress. Some Sth Africans we got talking to had asked for their money back they were so upset with their treatment, of course she wouldn’t give it. Two years ago we put off stopping there as it didn’t feel right. That was the old camp site. I have posted a photo of the ‘don’t’s’ they listed.
At Swakopmund we had to have the van pressure cleaned. The road all the way along the coast is what is called a salt road. Not sure if the salt is in the road surface or salty water that they spray on the road. It’s a great smooth surface but deadly on the vehicle if not washed off.
Weather suddenly cool here with the Atlantic mist rolling off the sea. Fleeces and thick socks weather.
We are staying at a campsite at Long Beach Leisure Park. A bit like a Butlins camp in winter. There is a pier going into the Atlantic with a building of some sorts on the end. This place is deserted at the moment. We braved the cold winds and walked to the end of the pier expecting an empty building. To our surprise it turns out to be a bar with a barman whiling away his time watching football on the telly. We warmed ourselves with a couple of stiff drinks.
Finally caught up with the blog.
We left Palmwag fairly early as we wanted to get to Henties Bay, the first place to get provisions. It’s on the coast and meant we were to pass through the Skeleton Coast NP on a one day transit pass. This whole coast is so fascinating, so dry and lacking in vegetation. In the past it was a graveyard for any shipwrecked survivors as there is no water no matter what Bear Grylles says. The ship wrecks didn’t end with the beginning of steam, we visited a large Chinese trawler, the Zeila of Hangana that came ashore on the 25 Aug. 2008. It is still there looking like the day it landed. Incidentally we were in Sth Africa at the time suffering some of the severest gales they had had for years.
On the way out to the coast we had or first blowout after hitting a rough river crossing too fast. We have 2 spares so no problems but we only had three cars pass us while working on it. They first 2 stopped to see if we need help but the third car was Max & Moira. It’s funny, I had a feeling they would come along.
The camp site at Henties Bay is one you wouldn’t recommend. Almost new it is strewn with signs saying what and what not to do, the vibes were not good as soon as the white woman came out of her fortress. Some Sth Africans we got talking to had asked for their money back they were so upset with their treatment, of course she wouldn’t give it. Two years ago we put off stopping there as it didn’t feel right. That was the old camp site. I have posted a photo of the ‘don’t’s’ they listed.
At Swakopmund we had to have the van pressure cleaned. The road all the way along the coast is what is called a salt road. Not sure if the salt is in the road surface or salty water that they spray on the road. It’s a great smooth surface but deadly on the vehicle if not washed off.
Weather suddenly cool here with the Atlantic mist rolling off the sea. Fleeces and thick socks weather.
We are staying at a campsite at Long Beach Leisure Park. A bit like a Butlins camp in winter. There is a pier going into the Atlantic with a building of some sorts on the end. This place is deserted at the moment. We braved the cold winds and walked to the end of the pier expecting an empty building. To our surprise it turns out to be a bar with a barman whiling away his time watching football on the telly. We warmed ourselves with a couple of stiff drinks.
17th August Palmwag
17th Aug. Palmwag, Damaraland.
Max and Moira left us at Purros, they have limited time and like traveling faster than us, it was great traveling with them but a bit hard on the vehicle keeping up with them. By this time our supplies were running low and we didn’t realize there would be no shops to speak of since leaving Ondangwa on the 8th. We then looked at the map and realized we still had some 400kms to go before the next supermarket. Still, you cope; fruit juice on muesli and jatz biscuits instead of bread went off alright.
This area is amazing, it isn’t a national park but the animals are still all around you. At Purros we saw the elephants, ostrich, baboons, grey mongoose, as well as some interesting birds, here on the way to Palmwag we saw more elephant, mountain zebra, giraffe, greater kudu, and hundreds of springbok from the road we were on. Quite amusing really: leaving Purros we saw a group of 7-8 ostriches some 200 metres from us, I stopped to take a photo then drove off. They began to run towards the bakkie but on an angle, I was doing 55kph when they easily crossed the road in front of us. They must have been doing a good 60kph. The same with a lone dimunitive springbok we startled feeding close to the road. Instead of taking off in another direction he ran flat out along side us for some 200 metres. I was doing 70kph and he was keeping up with us with ease.
Max and Moira left us at Purros, they have limited time and like traveling faster than us, it was great traveling with them but a bit hard on the vehicle keeping up with them. By this time our supplies were running low and we didn’t realize there would be no shops to speak of since leaving Ondangwa on the 8th. We then looked at the map and realized we still had some 400kms to go before the next supermarket. Still, you cope; fruit juice on muesli and jatz biscuits instead of bread went off alright.
This area is amazing, it isn’t a national park but the animals are still all around you. At Purros we saw the elephants, ostrich, baboons, grey mongoose, as well as some interesting birds, here on the way to Palmwag we saw more elephant, mountain zebra, giraffe, greater kudu, and hundreds of springbok from the road we were on. Quite amusing really: leaving Purros we saw a group of 7-8 ostriches some 200 metres from us, I stopped to take a photo then drove off. They began to run towards the bakkie but on an angle, I was doing 55kph when they easily crossed the road in front of us. They must have been doing a good 60kph. The same with a lone dimunitive springbok we startled feeding close to the road. Instead of taking off in another direction he ran flat out along side us for some 200 metres. I was doing 70kph and he was keeping up with us with ease.
15th Aug. Purros, Damaraland.
Last night, before we left the campsite and Marienflus, I cooked up a meal of eland steaks for the four of us. We had bought 4 fillets a couple of weeks earlier at a farm butchery whom we had bought some off 2 yrs ago. Talk about returning customers complaining of their earlier purchase, at that time one fillet was so tender, the other was so tough we had to throw it away. I mentioned it to the bloke there who happened to be as wide as he was tall, he said we must have been given an old beast. Didn’t give us a discount though. Anyhow, these fillets were very tender, Max and Moira were slow eaters but we polished the 12 fillet steaks off with ease.
We traveled some 220kms south today retracing or steps over some horrible roads once more until we got to Orupembe which consists of a shop, windmill, 250 drinking cattle, a couple of herdsmen and a new police station. The road improved after that and reached Purros later in the afternoon. In places there were no vegetation yet you come upon ostriches, springbok and gemsbok in good condition. All of these birds and animals don’t need water; they get enough moisture from the plants they eat.
The town of Purros consists again of one shop and 50-70 one room huts scattered over a large area. The bush campsite was a few kms out of town with signs warning of food left attracting elephants. The village is a good base to view the desert elephants of which there are 69 in the area. Also a pride of lions to keep the balance. That afternoon we went with a guide, Theiunis, he with the 5 children and a girl friend at 34, and found 6 of the creatures at a spring in the river bed. There are 69 in the area. They are such beautiful creatures to watch and if anyone wants to know a bit more about them the book ‘The Elephant Whisperer by Lawrence Anthony is a great book to read. An older male was showing a younger bloke how to fight with pseudo rushes and tusk jabs. The older female is usually the matriarch who runs the herd, the younger males are accepted until they reach maturity then leave to join bachelor herds.
A word about the camp sites in Namibia. The one here at Purros is typical; run by a community council each site has a braai (BBQ), sink, tap and usually shared ablution block. This one has one per site. In Australia the owners would have squeezed into the one site: 2 tents, 2 motorhomes and three caravans at least. The one we had at Etosha NP was big enough to build a small house in. Power is often supplied at no extra cost. They had planned to build a swimming pool at this one, it even says in the Lonely Planet that there is one, but realized thirsty elephants and relaxing tourists would be a disastrous mix. Elephants are very determined and do anything to get to water.
The toilets & showers are also quite novel. There are hardly ever any doors on the units, just a couple of corners for privacy. We usually leave our shoes at the entrance to let people know. The walls are made from stakes or rush and lucky to reach 1.8 meters tall. Often there in no roof apart from the branches of a tree. The first time I showered in one the tree happened to be an acacia with sharp thorns, when I lifted my arms to take my shirt off I received nasty cuts on my arms. I soon learnt.
Last night, before we left the campsite and Marienflus, I cooked up a meal of eland steaks for the four of us. We had bought 4 fillets a couple of weeks earlier at a farm butchery whom we had bought some off 2 yrs ago. Talk about returning customers complaining of their earlier purchase, at that time one fillet was so tender, the other was so tough we had to throw it away. I mentioned it to the bloke there who happened to be as wide as he was tall, he said we must have been given an old beast. Didn’t give us a discount though. Anyhow, these fillets were very tender, Max and Moira were slow eaters but we polished the 12 fillet steaks off with ease.
We traveled some 220kms south today retracing or steps over some horrible roads once more until we got to Orupembe which consists of a shop, windmill, 250 drinking cattle, a couple of herdsmen and a new police station. The road improved after that and reached Purros later in the afternoon. In places there were no vegetation yet you come upon ostriches, springbok and gemsbok in good condition. All of these birds and animals don’t need water; they get enough moisture from the plants they eat.
The town of Purros consists again of one shop and 50-70 one room huts scattered over a large area. The bush campsite was a few kms out of town with signs warning of food left attracting elephants. The village is a good base to view the desert elephants of which there are 69 in the area. Also a pride of lions to keep the balance. That afternoon we went with a guide, Theiunis, he with the 5 children and a girl friend at 34, and found 6 of the creatures at a spring in the river bed. There are 69 in the area. They are such beautiful creatures to watch and if anyone wants to know a bit more about them the book ‘The Elephant Whisperer by Lawrence Anthony is a great book to read. An older male was showing a younger bloke how to fight with pseudo rushes and tusk jabs. The older female is usually the matriarch who runs the herd, the younger males are accepted until they reach maturity then leave to join bachelor herds.
A word about the camp sites in Namibia. The one here at Purros is typical; run by a community council each site has a braai (BBQ), sink, tap and usually shared ablution block. This one has one per site. In Australia the owners would have squeezed into the one site: 2 tents, 2 motorhomes and three caravans at least. The one we had at Etosha NP was big enough to build a small house in. Power is often supplied at no extra cost. They had planned to build a swimming pool at this one, it even says in the Lonely Planet that there is one, but realized thirsty elephants and relaxing tourists would be a disastrous mix. Elephants are very determined and do anything to get to water.
The toilets & showers are also quite novel. There are hardly ever any doors on the units, just a couple of corners for privacy. We usually leave our shoes at the entrance to let people know. The walls are made from stakes or rush and lucky to reach 1.8 meters tall. Often there in no roof apart from the branches of a tree. The first time I showered in one the tree happened to be an acacia with sharp thorns, when I lifted my arms to take my shirt off I received nasty cuts on my arms. I soon learnt.
Wednesday, August 18, 2010
Some More Posts
Hi, Finally within range again and have caught up with a couple of pages and some photos. It was an amazing experience in the north, something we won't forget.Hope you enjoy the posts and photos.
Gary
Gary
13th August, The Marienflus
13th August. The Mareinflus.
The Marienflus is one of those place names that are mentioned with a sense of respect, even humbleness. It is a plain with massive mountains on both side of its 60km length including the sacred Mt Ondau to the Himba. There are no buildings apart from the occasional Himba kraal. The earth is covered with dry grass that can block radiators for the careless. Ostrich, gemsbok and springbok were seen, hyeanas are also in the area. It is a majestic inspiring place that few photos can do justice and words little more so. Driving north along it with the late afternoon light playing on the eastern range will be one of the most memorable highlights of this trip.
I’m writing this 20 metres from the Cunene River on croc watch. Any closer would be foolhardy although I haven’t seen any yet. I surprised a goliath heron when I walked down before dawn, the largest of the herons with its 2 metre wing span. Angola is a bare 50 metres away across the river. We are at a community camp site having a day off after the ball breaking 2 days driving up here. Our bakkie has been tested to its limits even without going down the Van Zyl pass, the ultimate for the 4wd enthusiasts of the area.
I have mentioned the Himba a few times. They are a semi nomadic tribe who were persecuted last century and retreated to the more isolated area in the north west where they have learnt to live, with their cattle and goats, in a very harsh environment. They use a mixture of herbs, butter and red ochre to cover their bodies with a coating that protects them from the sun. The result is a beautiful dark skin that radiates earthiness. The women never wash. The herbs give their bodies this alluring character. They wear few clothes, usually just a skirt of sorts.
The Marienflus is one of those place names that are mentioned with a sense of respect, even humbleness. It is a plain with massive mountains on both side of its 60km length including the sacred Mt Ondau to the Himba. There are no buildings apart from the occasional Himba kraal. The earth is covered with dry grass that can block radiators for the careless. Ostrich, gemsbok and springbok were seen, hyeanas are also in the area. It is a majestic inspiring place that few photos can do justice and words little more so. Driving north along it with the late afternoon light playing on the eastern range will be one of the most memorable highlights of this trip.
I’m writing this 20 metres from the Cunene River on croc watch. Any closer would be foolhardy although I haven’t seen any yet. I surprised a goliath heron when I walked down before dawn, the largest of the herons with its 2 metre wing span. Angola is a bare 50 metres away across the river. We are at a community camp site having a day off after the ball breaking 2 days driving up here. Our bakkie has been tested to its limits even without going down the Van Zyl pass, the ultimate for the 4wd enthusiasts of the area.
I have mentioned the Himba a few times. They are a semi nomadic tribe who were persecuted last century and retreated to the more isolated area in the north west where they have learnt to live, with their cattle and goats, in a very harsh environment. They use a mixture of herbs, butter and red ochre to cover their bodies with a coating that protects them from the sun. The result is a beautiful dark skin that radiates earthiness. The women never wash. The herbs give their bodies this alluring character. They wear few clothes, usually just a skirt of sorts.
11th Aug. Near van Zyl Pass
Weds 11th Aug. Epupa Falls
Epupa Falls is a series of 12 or so 30 metre drops that the Cunene River makes as it heads westwards. Bit like a mini Vic. Falls. It’s a popular destination for visitors and many overlanders trucks hugging the best water’s edge sites.
The night before a group of Sth Africans from Cape Town turned up at Hippo Pools in 5 vehicles. We chatted and it seemed they were heading on a similar route to us and were happy for us to tag along However we have met an Italian couple here who are also traveling the same way and said they felt safer if they were with someone else. Knowing the well equipped were behind us gave us all a bit more assurance.
Kaokoland and Damaraland are isolated areas, little visited esp in the north. It’s aland of breathtaking panoramas, high mountains and desert plains. More about that later. There are no supplies, extra fuel as to be carried and food also. Water is in short supply. This was where we were heading to.
Epupa Falls camp site was too crowded. One night was enough, the next morning we headed off with Max & Moira, a very nice couple in their 40s from outside Milan. They had hired a 4x4 from Windhoek. We had to back track 75 kms to Okangwati where we topped up with diesel then headed west.
Stephen, one of the Sth Africans had said the first 64kms was rough. It was a bit of an understatement. Little sand to contend with but very rocky with boulders the bakkie had to struggle over in 1st low range. It was reassuring having someone else with us. We reached the Van Zyl pass turnoff at 4.15 (5hrs to do 64kms) and drove a bit further before finding a spot to camp for the night beside a rocky outcrop or kopje as they call them over here.
We soon had a roaring fire from the dry wood lying around and sat down to have a welcome beer after a strenuous and tiring day. It was soon dark and talk had turned to the areas lions had been re-released in Damaraland/Kaokoland. Almost on cue we heard this low growl, we were instantly up peering into the dark. I grabbed my unused 100,000 watt spot light from the bakkie and carefully played it around the area with not so steady hands. After all this is Africa. Nothing apart from a dove’s eyes reflecting and a couple of fire flies. Actually I thought it was more like a bull’s groan, we had passed a herd of Himba cattle earlier. We built up the fire and settled down once more. Some Sth Africans had told Max in Botswana that lions don’t like fire, by now our fire was roaring. Then we thought of the kopje behind us, a perfect place for a leopard orlion to launch themselves, more spotlight, nothing.
We relaxed once more then we heard the groan again! We all jumped up, Max grabbed a burning branch for the fire and waved it around ready to defend us come what may. I cautiously crept forward with the light. Again nothing. It was very puzzling. Them Moira slapped Max on the arm and said something in Italian, they both speak perfect English, he sheepishly turned to us and said ‘It is only the water pump, I have forgotten to turn it off, it makes that noise every 5 minutes’
Later the sound of a passing herd of cattle relaxed us further, they would be better eating than old tasteless humans.
Epupa Falls is a series of 12 or so 30 metre drops that the Cunene River makes as it heads westwards. Bit like a mini Vic. Falls. It’s a popular destination for visitors and many overlanders trucks hugging the best water’s edge sites.
The night before a group of Sth Africans from Cape Town turned up at Hippo Pools in 5 vehicles. We chatted and it seemed they were heading on a similar route to us and were happy for us to tag along However we have met an Italian couple here who are also traveling the same way and said they felt safer if they were with someone else. Knowing the well equipped were behind us gave us all a bit more assurance.
Kaokoland and Damaraland are isolated areas, little visited esp in the north. It’s aland of breathtaking panoramas, high mountains and desert plains. More about that later. There are no supplies, extra fuel as to be carried and food also. Water is in short supply. This was where we were heading to.
Epupa Falls camp site was too crowded. One night was enough, the next morning we headed off with Max & Moira, a very nice couple in their 40s from outside Milan. They had hired a 4x4 from Windhoek. We had to back track 75 kms to Okangwati where we topped up with diesel then headed west.
Stephen, one of the Sth Africans had said the first 64kms was rough. It was a bit of an understatement. Little sand to contend with but very rocky with boulders the bakkie had to struggle over in 1st low range. It was reassuring having someone else with us. We reached the Van Zyl pass turnoff at 4.15 (5hrs to do 64kms) and drove a bit further before finding a spot to camp for the night beside a rocky outcrop or kopje as they call them over here.
We soon had a roaring fire from the dry wood lying around and sat down to have a welcome beer after a strenuous and tiring day. It was soon dark and talk had turned to the areas lions had been re-released in Damaraland/Kaokoland. Almost on cue we heard this low growl, we were instantly up peering into the dark. I grabbed my unused 100,000 watt spot light from the bakkie and carefully played it around the area with not so steady hands. After all this is Africa. Nothing apart from a dove’s eyes reflecting and a couple of fire flies. Actually I thought it was more like a bull’s groan, we had passed a herd of Himba cattle earlier. We built up the fire and settled down once more. Some Sth Africans had told Max in Botswana that lions don’t like fire, by now our fire was roaring. Then we thought of the kopje behind us, a perfect place for a leopard orlion to launch themselves, more spotlight, nothing.
We relaxed once more then we heard the groan again! We all jumped up, Max grabbed a burning branch for the fire and waved it around ready to defend us come what may. I cautiously crept forward with the light. Again nothing. It was very puzzling. Them Moira slapped Max on the arm and said something in Italian, they both speak perfect English, he sheepishly turned to us and said ‘It is only the water pump, I have forgotten to turn it off, it makes that noise every 5 minutes’
Later the sound of a passing herd of cattle relaxed us further, they would be better eating than old tasteless humans.
Tuesday, August 10, 2010
10 th August. Hippo Pools Camp
10th August. Hippo Pools Camp, Cunene River near Ruacana
A pleasant drive today of abut 200kms ending at this village camp site on the Cunene River. The river is the border between Angola and Namibia. Unfortunately the hippos were all finally destroyed in 2004 by the locals who were sick of them upending their boats. A shame that had to happen. However there are signs everywhere to warn against swimming in the fast flowing water because of crocodiles. And if they are anything like the Nile crocs we saw further north a few years back I wouldn’t take the risk. The Ruacana dam is just upstream a km or so that supplies ½ the electricity for Namibia. The rumble of the water is distinctly heard.
The trip today made us think the major business in the many small villages along the road are the shebeens or bars in our lingo. Every village would have quite a few with names like ‘Face to Face, ‘Lone Star’ & ‘Shebeen No. 1’. I haven’t enquired but I think drink may be a major problem outside the cities.
This could be my last blog for a while. We are heading into the outback and I think coverage will be thin on the ground.
Gary
A pleasant drive today of abut 200kms ending at this village camp site on the Cunene River. The river is the border between Angola and Namibia. Unfortunately the hippos were all finally destroyed in 2004 by the locals who were sick of them upending their boats. A shame that had to happen. However there are signs everywhere to warn against swimming in the fast flowing water because of crocodiles. And if they are anything like the Nile crocs we saw further north a few years back I wouldn’t take the risk. The Ruacana dam is just upstream a km or so that supplies ½ the electricity for Namibia. The rumble of the water is distinctly heard.
The trip today made us think the major business in the many small villages along the road are the shebeens or bars in our lingo. Every village would have quite a few with names like ‘Face to Face, ‘Lone Star’ & ‘Shebeen No. 1’. I haven’t enquired but I think drink may be a major problem outside the cities.
This could be my last blog for a while. We are heading into the outback and I think coverage will be thin on the ground.
Gary
9th August. R&R @ Ondangwa
9th August, Ondangwa
Hi,
Good to get the blog up to date and some photos on it. It’s been a bit of R&R today; driving through Etosha NP for 3 days was quite tiring. Not because we were dodging elephants although a greater kudu almost ran into us at one point, but the roads in the park are all made of a chalky white gravel, I don’t wear sun glasses and after a while the glare was causing a form of snow blindness.
Anyhow, the last two days were full of great sights from the dimunitive form of the Damara dik dik weighing in at 5 kilos to the elephants and giraffes. At one waterhole we counted 10 giraffes, at another, 8. Majestic animals. Yesterday as we were heading out of the park we noticed three animals loping along with a strange gait on the edge of the plain, looking through the binoculars we saw they were spotted hyenas that ended up crossing the road just in front of us. They cover amazing ground with their strange action. A much maligned animal they have some very strange traits none more than their reproductive arrangement. The female has a phallus which the male impregnates her through. Her vagina is closed from the exterior. The male is very subservient to the female and has to approach her in a groveling fashion to win her favour. Some things don’t change in the different species do they .
Tomorrow we head up to Ruacana, on the Angolan border. From there the going gets rough, the place less populated. It will be interesting.
Hi,
Good to get the blog up to date and some photos on it. It’s been a bit of R&R today; driving through Etosha NP for 3 days was quite tiring. Not because we were dodging elephants although a greater kudu almost ran into us at one point, but the roads in the park are all made of a chalky white gravel, I don’t wear sun glasses and after a while the glare was causing a form of snow blindness.
Anyhow, the last two days were full of great sights from the dimunitive form of the Damara dik dik weighing in at 5 kilos to the elephants and giraffes. At one waterhole we counted 10 giraffes, at another, 8. Majestic animals. Yesterday as we were heading out of the park we noticed three animals loping along with a strange gait on the edge of the plain, looking through the binoculars we saw they were spotted hyenas that ended up crossing the road just in front of us. They cover amazing ground with their strange action. A much maligned animal they have some very strange traits none more than their reproductive arrangement. The female has a phallus which the male impregnates her through. Her vagina is closed from the exterior. The male is very subservient to the female and has to approach her in a groveling fashion to win her favour. Some things don’t change in the different species do they .
Tomorrow we head up to Ruacana, on the Angolan border. From there the going gets rough, the place less populated. It will be interesting.
Monday, August 9, 2010
9th August, Ondangwa, Northern Namibia
Hi,
three posts just added. Been very hard to upload them the last few days as speeds are very slow at times with the dongle. Still working on the photos.
All well, warming up all the time.
Regards
Gary
three posts just added. Been very hard to upload them the last few days as speeds are very slow at times with the dongle. Still working on the photos.
All well, warming up all the time.
Regards
Gary
6th August 2
6th August. Namutoni Camp, Etosha NP.
It was a favourite for us last time and didn’t let us down in the first couple of hours here this time. Etosha is a vast national park. The farthest 2 camps are well over 140 kms apart. We arrived after lunch, had a doze, then took off to the Kalkheuwel water hole, some 18 kms from the camp. A few cars were there but in the hour before we had to head back to the camp, they close the gates at sundown, we saw elephant, giraffe, warthog, 4 lions, jackal, impala as well as many birds. It was easy to see the pecking order with the animals: before the elephants arrived the other animals were very nervous with the lions so close. They became more confident with the arrival of the pachyderms especially when one of them, after having a mud bath less than 40 metres from us, headed towards where the lions were resting sending them flying. He was very impressive.
It was a favourite for us last time and didn’t let us down in the first couple of hours here this time. Etosha is a vast national park. The farthest 2 camps are well over 140 kms apart. We arrived after lunch, had a doze, then took off to the Kalkheuwel water hole, some 18 kms from the camp. A few cars were there but in the hour before we had to head back to the camp, they close the gates at sundown, we saw elephant, giraffe, warthog, 4 lions, jackal, impala as well as many birds. It was easy to see the pecking order with the animals: before the elephants arrived the other animals were very nervous with the lions so close. They became more confident with the arrival of the pachyderms especially when one of them, after having a mud bath less than 40 metres from us, headed towards where the lions were resting sending them flying. He was very impressive.
6th Aug. Roy's Camp
6th August. Roy’s Camp. On way to Rundu
’You vill need vour veel drrive vor the last 6 kelometres’ Karla, the owner of Ohange Lodge said in her strong Afrikaans English. Getting quite used to it by now. Karla was recommending a 200km each way side trip to visit a local tribe of bushmen who had started a low key tourist operation 6 years ago to show visitors how they used to live as hunter/gatherers. Twenty years ago they were forbidden to hunt as the number of wildlife had dropped dramatically. They have given up the nomadic life; the village we visited had about 50 inhabitants.
Erastus met us and told us to make our way to the camp site 500 metres away. He followed after changing into his native garb of a very small loin cloth. They are a small race, making Joan look quite tall. The women soon appeared and proceeded to make jewellery from ostrich shell and seeds. Erastus’es offsider showed us how to make fire from 2 sticks, I refused an offer to try myself, then he proceeded to make a bow from a nearby branch and the string he wove together from a green plant, perhaps a type of succulent. Thirty minutes later we were trying the bow out on a straw antelope. I missed, not by much, but the local hit true. Joan had great difficulty firing, we felt a little unsafe standing too close.
One of the women had a 1 month old baby with her, a lovely little thing already with the tight knit hair of their race.
Many scientists think the San Bushmen is mankind earliest ancestors. A sobering thought but they do have the Asian appearance in their faces.
Roy’s Camp is well known as a stopping off point It has an eccentric atmosphere with bits dangling everywhere. It is the busiest place we have stayed so far.
’You vill need vour veel drrive vor the last 6 kelometres’ Karla, the owner of Ohange Lodge said in her strong Afrikaans English. Getting quite used to it by now. Karla was recommending a 200km each way side trip to visit a local tribe of bushmen who had started a low key tourist operation 6 years ago to show visitors how they used to live as hunter/gatherers. Twenty years ago they were forbidden to hunt as the number of wildlife had dropped dramatically. They have given up the nomadic life; the village we visited had about 50 inhabitants.
Erastus met us and told us to make our way to the camp site 500 metres away. He followed after changing into his native garb of a very small loin cloth. They are a small race, making Joan look quite tall. The women soon appeared and proceeded to make jewellery from ostrich shell and seeds. Erastus’es offsider showed us how to make fire from 2 sticks, I refused an offer to try myself, then he proceeded to make a bow from a nearby branch and the string he wove together from a green plant, perhaps a type of succulent. Thirty minutes later we were trying the bow out on a straw antelope. I missed, not by much, but the local hit true. Joan had great difficulty firing, we felt a little unsafe standing too close.
One of the women had a 1 month old baby with her, a lovely little thing already with the tight knit hair of their race.
Many scientists think the San Bushmen is mankind earliest ancestors. A sobering thought but they do have the Asian appearance in their faces.
Roy’s Camp is well known as a stopping off point It has an eccentric atmosphere with bits dangling everywhere. It is the busiest place we have stayed so far.
5th August Ohange Lodge
5th August. Ohange Lodge, near Tsumeb
It was a frustrating day yesterday. We drove north to Otjiwharingo and hoped to visit the REST crowd that we will be doing some volunteering work with later. However due to a thrown away phone number, bad directions and a closed information centre we ended up 40kms out of town at the Cheetah Conservation Fund complex. The REST crowd were further up the main road and about the same distance on dirt road. Well, seeing we were there we took in the tour. It was feeding time, they are beautiful animals, the ones at the complex were orphans and some weren’t able to be released back into the while lacking hunting skills to survive. The genetic bank of the cheetah is very small in fact they may be traced back to a handful of females. Deformities are common, the male’s sperm is often infertile and inbreeding is a major problem. CCF are doing an important job of trying to increase the gene diversity by sending semen worldwide to other groups.
We also learnt that 90% of cheetahs are not in reserves and game parks. In the past they have been shot by farmers when they attack their live stock. CCF are working with the farmers to turn a bad situation into a win/win one. They are breeding Turkish Anatolian shepherd dogs to sell at a cheap price to farmers who have had stock killed. The Anatolian dogs of course bond with the stock and protect them with their lives. It is an ingenious arrangement we thought. The farmer spends a few days at CCF to learn how to look after them and follow up visits occur to make sure all is well. The cheetahs have to revert back to the plentiful wildlife on the farms.
I am writing this a few metres from the van, the sun is rising, behind me an ostrich (partly tame) had just wandered by and in the distance a group of springbok leap away. I was going for an early morning walk but thought better of it. I’m not sure of predators in this area.
It was a frustrating day yesterday. We drove north to Otjiwharingo and hoped to visit the REST crowd that we will be doing some volunteering work with later. However due to a thrown away phone number, bad directions and a closed information centre we ended up 40kms out of town at the Cheetah Conservation Fund complex. The REST crowd were further up the main road and about the same distance on dirt road. Well, seeing we were there we took in the tour. It was feeding time, they are beautiful animals, the ones at the complex were orphans and some weren’t able to be released back into the while lacking hunting skills to survive. The genetic bank of the cheetah is very small in fact they may be traced back to a handful of females. Deformities are common, the male’s sperm is often infertile and inbreeding is a major problem. CCF are doing an important job of trying to increase the gene diversity by sending semen worldwide to other groups.
We also learnt that 90% of cheetahs are not in reserves and game parks. In the past they have been shot by farmers when they attack their live stock. CCF are working with the farmers to turn a bad situation into a win/win one. They are breeding Turkish Anatolian shepherd dogs to sell at a cheap price to farmers who have had stock killed. The Anatolian dogs of course bond with the stock and protect them with their lives. It is an ingenious arrangement we thought. The farmer spends a few days at CCF to learn how to look after them and follow up visits occur to make sure all is well. The cheetahs have to revert back to the plentiful wildlife on the farms.
I am writing this a few metres from the van, the sun is rising, behind me an ostrich (partly tame) had just wandered by and in the distance a group of springbok leap away. I was going for an early morning walk but thought better of it. I’m not sure of predators in this area.
Tuesday, August 3, 2010
3rd August Okahandja
3rd August. Okahandja Lodge. 70kms Nth Windhoek
Finally bought everything we thought we needed and on the road. It’s a wonderful sensation. The first night we stopped on the edge of Windhoek to try it all out so we could duck back to town to get anything we missed. It was near the main road and noisy but that didn’t seem to worry our neighbours, a family of African ground squirrels. There was about 15 plastic bags of goods lined up behind the Nissan which Joan studiously found room for inside. Today we are having a break to recuperate from it all.
The Okahandja Lodge is similar to many of the lodges and retreats over here: the main lodge with its up market accommodation and price to match, then tucked away in some times idyllic spots is their campsite. This one could take about 15 units, shaded and grassy, water and power on hand, hot water from the donkey, spotless and a night guard to keep an eye on things. And we can use the facilities of the lodge. All for $22 a night. Birdlife is profuse. It was too hard to refuse the 2nd night.
I spoke about the bakkie before but now we are in it there is little we can complain about. We had to take it back to the hire crowd we bought it off as the water pump wouldn’t work and a few other niggles but that was all sorted out without difficulty. It’s a little different than our VW but just as much room. We had to forgo the porta potti for lack of space but these stools with a hole in the top and a bucket underneath seem to work ok for Joan. Just as long as she remembers to put the lid on after to save my Bellingen Jazz cap falling in for a 2nd time. The vehicle as I said before, is very basic. They call them the Bushmaster model over here. It’s really like the Patrols and Landcruisers of 20 years ago. No turbo, automatic choke, ABS brakes, electric windows, nothing that can go wrong in some awkward place. It’s very basic but I have been told many times that that is the perfect vehicle for what we have done and are doing.
Enough raving. Will sort out some photos and get them on the blog.
Gary
Finally bought everything we thought we needed and on the road. It’s a wonderful sensation. The first night we stopped on the edge of Windhoek to try it all out so we could duck back to town to get anything we missed. It was near the main road and noisy but that didn’t seem to worry our neighbours, a family of African ground squirrels. There was about 15 plastic bags of goods lined up behind the Nissan which Joan studiously found room for inside. Today we are having a break to recuperate from it all.
The Okahandja Lodge is similar to many of the lodges and retreats over here: the main lodge with its up market accommodation and price to match, then tucked away in some times idyllic spots is their campsite. This one could take about 15 units, shaded and grassy, water and power on hand, hot water from the donkey, spotless and a night guard to keep an eye on things. And we can use the facilities of the lodge. All for $22 a night. Birdlife is profuse. It was too hard to refuse the 2nd night.
I spoke about the bakkie before but now we are in it there is little we can complain about. We had to take it back to the hire crowd we bought it off as the water pump wouldn’t work and a few other niggles but that was all sorted out without difficulty. It’s a little different than our VW but just as much room. We had to forgo the porta potti for lack of space but these stools with a hole in the top and a bucket underneath seem to work ok for Joan. Just as long as she remembers to put the lid on after to save my Bellingen Jazz cap falling in for a 2nd time. The vehicle as I said before, is very basic. They call them the Bushmaster model over here. It’s really like the Patrols and Landcruisers of 20 years ago. No turbo, automatic choke, ABS brakes, electric windows, nothing that can go wrong in some awkward place. It’s very basic but I have been told many times that that is the perfect vehicle for what we have done and are doing.
Enough raving. Will sort out some photos and get them on the blog.
Gary
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