11th Aug. Near van Zyl Pass

Weds 11th Aug. Epupa Falls
Epupa Falls is a series of 12 or so 30 metre drops that the Cunene River makes as it heads westwards. Bit like a mini Vic. Falls. It’s a popular destination for visitors and many overlanders trucks hugging the best water’s edge sites.
The night before a group of Sth Africans from Cape Town turned up at Hippo Pools in 5 vehicles. We chatted and it seemed they were heading on a similar route to us and were happy for us to tag along However we have met an Italian couple here who are also traveling the same way and said they felt safer if they were with someone else. Knowing the well equipped were behind us gave us all a bit more assurance.
Kaokoland and Damaraland are isolated areas, little visited esp in the north. It’s aland of breathtaking panoramas, high mountains and desert plains. More about that later. There are no supplies, extra fuel as to be carried and food also. Water is in short supply. This was where we were heading to.
Epupa Falls camp site was too crowded. One night was enough, the next morning we headed off with Max & Moira, a very nice couple in their 40s from outside Milan. They had hired a 4x4 from Windhoek. We had to back track 75 kms to Okangwati where we topped up with diesel then headed west.
Stephen, one of the Sth Africans had said the first 64kms was rough. It was a bit of an understatement. Little sand to contend with but very rocky with boulders the bakkie had to struggle over in 1st low range. It was reassuring having someone else with us. We reached the Van Zyl pass turnoff at 4.15 (5hrs to do 64kms) and drove a bit further before finding a spot to camp for the night beside a rocky outcrop or kopje as they call them over here.
We soon had a roaring fire from the dry wood lying around and sat down to have a welcome beer after a strenuous and tiring day. It was soon dark and talk had turned to the areas lions had been re-released in Damaraland/Kaokoland. Almost on cue we heard this low growl, we were instantly up peering into the dark. I grabbed my unused 100,000 watt spot light from the bakkie and carefully played it around the area with not so steady hands. After all this is Africa. Nothing apart from a dove’s eyes reflecting and a couple of fire flies. Actually I thought it was more like a bull’s groan, we had passed a herd of Himba cattle earlier. We built up the fire and settled down once more. Some Sth Africans had told Max in Botswana that lions don’t like fire, by now our fire was roaring. Then we thought of the kopje behind us, a perfect place for a leopard orlion to launch themselves, more spotlight, nothing.
We relaxed once more then we heard the groan again! We all jumped up, Max grabbed a burning branch for the fire and waved it around ready to defend us come what may. I cautiously crept forward with the light. Again nothing. It was very puzzling. Them Moira slapped Max on the arm and said something in Italian, they both speak perfect English, he sheepishly turned to us and said ‘It is only the water pump, I have forgotten to turn it off, it makes that noise every 5 minutes’
Later the sound of a passing herd of cattle relaxed us further, they would be better eating than old tasteless humans.