13th August, The Marienflus

13th August. The Mareinflus.
The Marienflus is one of those place names that are mentioned with a sense of respect, even humbleness. It is a plain with massive mountains on both side of its 60km length including the sacred Mt Ondau to the Himba. There are no buildings apart from the occasional Himba kraal. The earth is covered with dry grass that can block radiators for the careless. Ostrich, gemsbok and springbok were seen, hyeanas are also in the area. It is a majestic inspiring place that few photos can do justice and words little more so. Driving north along it with the late afternoon light playing on the eastern range will be one of the most memorable highlights of this trip.
I’m writing this 20 metres from the Cunene River on croc watch. Any closer would be foolhardy although I haven’t seen any yet. I surprised a goliath heron when I walked down before dawn, the largest of the herons with its 2 metre wing span. Angola is a bare 50 metres away across the river. We are at a community camp site having a day off after the ball breaking 2 days driving up here. Our bakkie has been tested to its limits even without going down the Van Zyl pass, the ultimate for the 4wd enthusiasts of the area.
I have mentioned the Himba a few times. They are a semi nomadic tribe who were persecuted last century and retreated to the more isolated area in the north west where they have learnt to live, with their cattle and goats, in a very harsh environment. They use a mixture of herbs, butter and red ochre to cover their bodies with a coating that protects them from the sun. The result is a beautiful dark skin that radiates earthiness. The women never wash. The herbs give their bodies this alluring character. They wear few clothes, usually just a skirt of sorts.