24th Aug. Swakopmund

21st Aug. Walvis Bay
Swakopmund and Walvis Bay are as different as chalk and cheese. Separated by only 30kms, the former is suave, modern, and chic with its coffee houses and boutiques. Walvis Bay is the working town with its large port, betting houses and tired centre. Yet it is the latter with its friendly people, and air of industry. And then there are the wetlands south of the city that make it unique. An estuary of some 45,000 hectares that is home to hundreds of different types of birds. The area is a world RAMSAR declared place of significance for migrating birds the main inhabitant being tens of thousands greater flamingoes. All along the shore at low tide they are seen doing the circular dance of death for the crustaceans they are trying to scare out of the mud. They put their beaks in the mud where they think one is then stomp the feet going around in a circle at the same time. It is quite amusing. That is an advantage of having a bit of time up your sleeve; to take in things like that that the usual tourist wouldn’t have time to do.
22nd Aug Namib/Naukluft NP Mirabib Kopje
That applies to these next three days as well. This park is the biggest in the country but is mainly semi desert and sand dunes. We spent last night camped at the Kuseib Canyon where the dry river forces its way through this rocky range. On the other side of the river is the beginning of the massive sand dunes that carry on for over 100kms. I climbed one that would easily be 150 metres high and this morning we trekked through the canyon proper. So quiet with a little breeze and the odd swallow to break the silence.
We left there this morning heading to this kopje a short distance away. The road was good and interesting passing by a couple of deserted mining sites, wildlife was scant apart from a couple of bat eared foxes and the ubiquitous springbok. We then turned a corner, there was a windmill ahead of us and in the surrounding area were 40-50 ostriches, at least 15 gemsbok, jackals, mountain zebra, a family of warthogs and nearby a colony of meercats. It was amazing. The windmill wasn’t pumping any water but there must have been water nearby as some of those would be water dependent.
23rd. Namib/Naukluft NP. Groot Tinkas Camp
I don’t think we have been as isolated as this evening. Camped besides a small kopje after traveling along this 4wd track for 15kms or so. A couple of wart hogs greeted us but made off fairly quickly. We passed the usual plains animals on our way here and there are signs of them grazing in the area but none here at present. These kopjes have their own animals, smaller but still interesting. As I write this a couple of dassie rats come out and forage then fly back into their shelter if we disturb them. Actually they have been misnamed as they aren’t dassies (hyraxes) or rats but a genus of their own. We had a couple of native rabbits in our area last night and some rock hyraxes on the rocks this morning
There are a couple of graves nearby, the writing is in German but sounds like they were in the army and the two blokes died within a day of each other. Will find out more when I find a German speaker.
We will be leaving the park tomorrow and will either head back to Swakopmund where there is a day trip we would like to do, or head on to Windhoek.